Gamkaskloof, also known as “Die Hel” or “the Hell, is a fascinating, hidden valley in the heart of the Swartberg Mountains where a small, proud, community lived in isolation for more than 100 years. Access was on foot and horseback and harvests of dried fruit and wild honey were carried out by pack animals. The first road into the valley was built in 1962, facilitating communication with the outside world, but also ultimately leading to an exodus of all the valley’s farming families.
Entrance to the valley is through the same dirt road, beginning about half way along the Swartberg Pass, and is a beautiful 50km drive, although not for the faint hearted (nor for those driving their ‘luxury German sedan’ with low profile tires and low front spoilers). The warning sign at the beginning of the road attests to the risks!
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Gamkaskloof (Die Hel) entrance road |
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Winding road towards Gamkaskloof (Die Hel) |
The first part of the drive is a pleasant dirt road winding its way along the valley. A valley edged by kilometers of rock that had obviously been flat a long time ago, but now snapped off and pushed up on one side in tortured formations.
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Pushed up rocks |
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Tortured rock formations en-route to Gamkaskloof (Die Hel) |
But then you arrive at the edge of the real Gamkaskloof, and you look down over that narrow strip of green, fertile, farmland. It’s the last chance to stop for a photograph, beyond this the road dives down the edge of the mountain towards the valley in a series of tight, rocky, turns. Often there is only enough road width for one car, and for many cars, some of the corners require 3-point turns. Certainly no place to stop for photos, so I don’t have any of this section!
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Looking down into fertile Gamkaskloof Valley |
At the bottom of the valley, one passes some of the original mud brick houses, a few of which have been renovated and now used as cottages for overnight accommodation. This brings us to the Farm Mooifontein, owned by Annetjie Joubert (neé Mostert). She is the only remaining "born and bred" inhabitant that has retained property in Gamkaskloof. She came back permanently in 1998 and skilfully converted the original farmstead (Fonteinplaas) into comfortable guesthouses, has a caravan park, camping sites and the only Kiosk and Licensed Restaurant in Gamkaskloof. I came away from the kiosk with a stock of jams and chutney made right there in the valley.
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Original Gamkaskloof mud homes |
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Fonteinplaas, home of Annetjie Joubert, in Gamlaskloof |
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Restaurant and kiosk in Gamkaskloof |
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